Book Review: The Only Street in Paris

Comte and Etorki Cheese (sooo delicious!)...unfortunately I don't have any other pics that would go along with this book review.

The Only Street in Paris
Life on the Rue des Martyrs
Author: Elaine Sciolino

After reading Picnic in Provence, a couple of months ago I came across a new book out by Elaine Sciolino, a journalist who has been living in Paris for over a decade now. 

This book has a lot, I mean A LOT of historical info for what you think you are going to get.  (Bear in mind that I'm a person that doesn't know anything about French history.)  There are tidbits of info strewn into the book via stories of people she meets on the Rue des Martyrs and quite a bit of religious history given the number of churches on the street.  Essentially, she writes about her interactions with the different shopkeepers and residents living in or around the street to give us a picture or more appropriately, a feeling of what it is like to be living on this street.  

The Rue des Martyrs reminds me a little like Kensington Market in Toronto (although it is a combination of a number of streets vs one street in Paris).  Although I've never lived in that part of town and the area does not have the length of history as the Rue des Martyrs, it seems like it has the potential to be, but...that would probably be another discussion.  Kensington Market is slowly becoming more gentrified with eateries that are more modern but it still has many vendors that have been there for years (how many years I'm not sure of).   There are still cheese shops and produce vendors and shops selling little knick knacks (....don't know if the flag store is still there).  There are tons of coffee shops and the area was the place to go for second hand goods.  On St. Andrew street there was a poultry shop my mom liked to buy whole chickens from (with head and feet attached and a little bag of organs if you wanted them) but I think they have since moved, and on that street there is also an old Jewish Synagogue, Anshei Minsk.  I remember seeing it quite often and when I recently looked it up, they mention there used to be about 30 places of worship for the Jewish community in the Kensington Area. Anyway, if you live in Toronto, most have been to the area in pursuit of some of the newer eats that have been all over social media.

There are some interesting things tidbits about Paris that come out while she talks about the Rue des Martyrs.  In one chapter she mentions she met some people and asked what their profession was and there would be people that will say 'intellectual'...quite a different response that what we would hear in Canada, lol!  She points out that that is not what the people on the Rue des Martyrs are like.  However, there are many that are well read and love books and it was also interesting to note that there is a law that books can't be sold for more than 5% off the cover price...even Amazon!  This is to protect the independent book stores.  I think it's good for them, but at the same time I'm a person that buys from Amazon or Indigo/Chapters online.  

What I liked...

- Elaine's enthusiasm.  It really shows through that she really loves the street and is willing to make the first move to open up or to show a sign that she's interested in the people.
- Again, the personal stories were important to the overall appeal of the book.  I don't think it was one story but at times I felt like I was right there as someone in the audience watching a short play of certain conversations she's had.

Not your 'cup of tea' if you...

- If you have NO interest in the history of buildings and churches you might want to skip this, but it's still a manageable read. I have never been to Paris but appreciate the long history of some of the buildings.  I don't remember all the details but hopefully when one day I walk down the Rue des Martyrs I'll remember something.
- If you're looking for the side of Paris that we in North America always see/think about...the pastries (oh the pastries!), the baguettes, the cheese, the sitting at a cafe with a coffee or glass of wine, picnic by the Seine, the monuments, the shopping.  This book is not about describing all that in detail, well actually there is quite a bit about the Cheese monger there, but it won't give you a guide to the trendy shops (but does highlight second hand shops) or other things in Paris.  For example, Sebastien Gaudard, a famous pastry chef and chocolatier, has a shop on the Rue des Martyrs, there is not much about him and his creations.  He is regarded as another member of the 'family' on the street.

Overall...

An interesting read that either makes you want to go to the Rue des Martyrs and interact with the shopkeepers or at least consider it on your next trip to Paris.

Artisanal, What Does it Mean?

I'm reading a book called Small Batch Pickles, Cheese, Chocolate, Spirits, and the return of Artisanal Foods by Suzanne Cope and the start of the book questions, what does the word 'artisanal' mean?

Personally, I never really thought about how I would define artisanal, but my first thoughts on whether something is artisanal or not is that it is made by hand, with ingredients that are unique in some way from the norm.

Cope goes into the history of small batch artisanal foods, mentions how the term is not regulated, and even large corporations are using the term.  It didn't really occur to me until I read this, but I did buy some crackers made by Dare that had the word Artisanal on it.  When I bought it, the sweet potatoes and ancient grains (that term is also used frequently now) was what appealed to me.  But I now wonder how much of an influence the word 'Artisanal' on the package has on the choice made by consumers.  I would still buy the crackers as they were okay tasting, but I question the use of the word on their packaging.

The word also had come up in a recent web article I read on soy milk by a food writer I started following.  Wei "hesitates to call soymilk-making an artisanal, small-batch practice, even though inherently, that is what it is in China and Taiwan."  Again, what does 'artisanal' mean?  I think not all small-batches are artisanal but are all artisanal products small batch?  Cope starts to go into the discussion of whether a product that is artisanal and once was small batch can move to a larger scale of operation and still be artisanal.

As I read through this book, I'm sure there is much more to say about the term 'artisanal' and whether there could be a clearly defined term especially as the food world is changing so rapidly these days.  Would love to hear your definitions or thoughts on the term 'artisanal'!



----------------------

Normally, I'd try to translate a sentence or paragraph but instead finding the proper word in Chinese that would represent 'artisanal', there were various terms I found.  Here are a couple:

手工藝工人 is craftsman or artisan...手工 is literally hand and work together while 藝 is skill or trade.

能工巧匠 ...巧 (qiao3) is defined as skillful, ingenious, clever (but also has some negative connotations)  ..匠 (jiang4) is an older term for craftsman, artisan it seems.  I'll have to see if some of my design magazines use a specific term, please let me know if there are any terms more commonly used :)

Why the occasional duplicate sentence written in Chinese?  

One of my goals starting in 2016 is to improve my Chinese language skills so this is one way I'm going about it.  
Please comment if you noticed I've totally messed up!  Thanks!

Book Review: Rice Noodle Fish

A beautiful dish from the omakase meal (some elements of traditional kaiseki, but I don't think as formal) at
Sushi Kaji in Toronto (Spring 2013)

Rice Noodle Fish
Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture
Author: Matt Goulding

Written by the co-creator of the website/magazine Roads & Kingdoms, Rice Noodle Fish is their first book and is focused on Japan.  I was on their website and they were advertising the book so I thought I'd check it out.

Part guidebook, part travelogue, Goulding takes us to Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Fukuoka, Hiroshima, Hokkaido, and Noto.  I've only been to Tokyo and know a little bit about Osaka, Kyoto, and Hokkaido...and when I say little I mean I know a few of the foods I'd like to try there and that's about it. Given the list of cities highlighted, this not a complete guide to Japan's culinary culture but it is fairly extensive and reiterates some main points about the culture throughout; specialization and dedication to craft.  In the Tokyo chapter, he mentions the concept of shokunin, "an artisan deeply and singularly dedicated to his or her craft, is at the core of Japanese culture" (pg 6)..."Tokyo is the city of ten thousand shokunin.  If you come to Japan to eat, you come for them" (pg 7).

Actually, my first impression after the first couple of chapters was that it wasn't as appealing as I thought it would be, but eventually the later chapters drew me in more.  Don't get me wrong, there was new stuff to learn about each area but some parts were also a little, hmmm, long-winded?  It was definitely interesting to learn about the Osaka food scene; sounds like a lot of fun!  As well, who knew that there was such an art to yakitori?!  If you know a little bit about Japan or more specifically Japanese food, you know that they specialize in one area and to the nth degree.  A lot of times the restaurant is so tiny that there are only a few seats right in front of the chef so it's in a way a form of entertainment because you can see everything that is going on in the preparation of the dish/food.  I've read in Tokyo they've started to also plate your dessert in front of you here; providing that extra something for customers.

One part that I think was a bit too long was the Kyoto chapter.  He goes to Kyoto and has multiple kaiseki meals and searches for an understanding of kaiseki.  Whether he finds it or not is up to you to decide from his writing, but in the end he does highlight a father and son that appear to be bringing kaiseki to new heights.
Just before I finished writing this review, I came across a recent post from Toronto Life on Toronto's kaiseki scene, reviewing Miku but mentioning Sushi Kaji.  (I would show more pics of the oh soooo very good sushi and sashimi at Sushi Kaji several years ago, but this post is not really about Sushi Kaji.)

The chapter on Fukuoka starting to capture my attention a bit more.  In Fukuoka, he met with Toshiyuki Kamimura who eats 400 bowls of ramen a year.  He also referenced the Ramen book The Untold History of Ramen which I really liked and wrote a review about here.  Talked about Yatai culture (food stalls, I'm thinking they are like da pai dong in HK or night market street vendors in Taiwan).  Hiroshima focused on okinomyaki (the version with noodles) and Goulding discusses a little bit about his feelings associated with being an American and walking through Hiroshima, one of the places in Japan bombed by the Americans/Canadians/British during WWII.  Hokkaido, and Noto more interesting and I've highlighted them below.  Because I've only traveled to Tokyo, the other areas of the book were more interesting.


Best Parts IMO...

- Hokkaido was interesting because it gave an array of different things to experience in Hokkaido while still adding the personal stories.  In Hokkaido, Tatsuru makes soba from hand using 100% buckwheat grown in the area.  " 'The process is everything,' Tatsuru says, in what could be a four-word definition of Japan. The young man next to me, a spiky-haired pop star from Sapporo, nods his head in agreement. 'Once you eat here, it's hard to go back,' he says, in what could be a nine-word definition of Hokkaido."

- I've never heard of Noto and the moniker "Kingdom of Fermentation" but it really made me want to go there.  A lot is focused on preserving the culture; the culinary culture of the area.  It's definitely not easy to do as a lot if not all foods are made from what nature provides.  Today, we can buy dried kombu but they actually do the drying.  Making miso from scratch, pickling all sorts of things, making their own fish sauce....how easy is it for us to just go to the (Asian) supermarket and buy these things!

An excerpt:

"To make Noto cuisine is an act of patience and sacrifice, one that forgoes the ease of modern conveniences like supermarkets and industrial ingredients for a deeper commitment to land and legacy.  It means adapting your life to fit the fickle behavior of the seasons.  It means understanding tidal rhythms and weather patterns by how they translate to the table.  It means mottainai, "nothing goes to waste," a philosophy that resonates through every facet of Japanese food culture.  It's an ethos born not simply out of necessity or industriousness but out of the Shinto belief that objects have souls and should be honored accordingly." (pg 298)

Information is passed down from parent to child and only through years and years of experience does information get transferred.  Today, we search on the internet but there is only so much that can be conveyed.  I recently read a blog post on tea making and how the tea farmer will pass that info to son and grandson.  The grandson works in the tea garden/processing facility on the weekends to learn the family business while going to school during the weekdays.  Much of these "secrets" and experiences are only obtained through years and years of working at the same thing.


Not for you if...

- you want lots of recommendations for specific places and addresses.  e.g. the section on Noto really focuses on one family and their ryo-kan (the #1 bb/inn out of 16 on tripadvisor).  Goulding talks extensively with the family and although I really liked the in-depth look at the food culture in Noto and the individual story, this might not appeal to everyone.

- interested in a Tokyo guidebook, the Tokyo section is not very big or specific.  He highlights Jiro Ono for sushi, yakitori, coffee from Katsuji Daibo, and cocktail culture.


Overall...

I liked this book.  It appeals to those looking for personal stories of exceptional people making exceptional food, then again, that is the basis of the book, to look beyond the basic travel info.  It's about the experience...and right now people are looking for experiences, putting value on it more than ever these days as opposed to just material things.  Don't get me wrong, brand name items will always be cultivated, but to spend money on food experiences is at it's simplest, about happiness - food can do that.  Seeking out food experiences might also be about educating yourself on different foods that you didn't grow up with, new techniques or flavours or in some cases, just getting to know the true taste of something.  For example, freshly picked Ontario strawberries, so much more delicious!  It also gives people (including myself) more to talk about with others or is an easy enough topic to talk about in a social setting.  I'd like to think that seeking out food experiences is a positive thing but, in a not-so-positive light, for some people it could be another way of indicating social status which many people don't realize because it's not the intention of most people. Gosh, now I'm rambling, sorry for digressing, this could be a whole different discussion! I'll make one final comment about the book.  If anything, the book is another example of how Japanese culinary culture could be/is changing the way we eat and think about food.

Book Review: The Tea Book by Linda Gaylard

The Tea Book
Author: Linda Gaylard
(Fellow Torontonian and blogger on the site http://theteastylist.com/)

The Tea Book is a basic introduction to tea and tissanes (herbal/fruit infusions) with lots and lots of recipes for hot and cold teas and tea cocktails.  When I first picked up the book, it was thinner than other books I have and I was curious as to whether there would be enough info in the book given there were also more tea recipes than other books about tea.

A pleasant read, Linda does a good job at highlighting important points and summarizing key information.  It's a good intro to tea; the history, customs, growing regions, and brewing.  Definitely enough info for beginners and those with a general interest in tea but, did lack on depth if you already know the basics or are looking for more detailed info on a type or region of tea.  (Her website actually has more depth of info like this Jasmine tea post where she traveled to Fuzhou or some interesting tidbits of tea history.)  The book does have a little more info on tissanes than other books so would also be of interest to those that would like to learn a bit more about this area. 

I actually read this a couple of months ago but was holding back on posting a review because I wanted to try a couple of recipes.  Unfortunately, I didn't try the recipes due to lack of time and a few that I wanted to try required one or two ingredients that I just didn't have on hand at the time. I'm also more of a straight tea drinker when I'm home. If I do get around to trying the ones I did note down, I'll be sure to update.  There were several interesting ones and Linda does have a recipe for taro bubble tea made from fresh taro for all the bubble tea lovers!  Oh, also if you like chai tea, there's one in there that looks promising....


What I liked...

- Lots of recipes for tea beverages!  Most tea books have recipes for tea infused foods but this one is all about mixing beverages....有很多泡茶放發
- Not as "dry" to read as some other books, with some good visuals....圖片還好
- Great for beginners...適合初學茶的朋友

Example of the visuals and easy to read formatting

Overall, I'd still recommend this book for beginners or tea enthusiasts that want a load of tea beverage recipes.  If you're a tea book collector, this would also be a good resource because of it's easy to read format and you could always refer back to the recipes if the occasion arises.

Book Review: Picnic in Provence

Rosemary, Olive and Parmesan Sables

Picnic in Provence
Author: Elizabeth Bard

Picnic in Provence is the follow-up book to Lunch in Paris which did outstandingly well.  Her second book is definitely a winner too!

I loved reading this book!  Memoirs or biographies are not for everyone but this one was one that spoke to me in more ways than one. I picked it up from the library by chance as I saw it on display in the browsery. Sometimes you love a book when you read it at the right time in life and the timing of this book was perfect for me. 

Elizabeth had moved to Paris after meeting her husband and her second book chronicles three life changing moments: her move to Cereste, France (which is in the Provence region), her first three years as a new mom, and the opening of a new business in ice cream.  Similar to her first book (which I haven't read), she includes recipes.  So, along with descriptions of life in France, great recipes, the hardships of starting a new business, and the feelings of being a mom, I was interested in all of it.  If she had written this several years ago, I don't know if I would have appreciated her trials and joys as a mom.  But, I think I would have enjoyed the book nonetheless because of all the other aspects.

I started putting little slips of paper into the book to bookmark a recipe and found I had >10 recipes that interested me which is a lot! I can't say they are all unique as I found a similar titled one in another book of mine, but most seem relatively simple (important when you have a toddler), had ingredients that I liked, and a lot were unique in some way.  And it helps that she describes them in a way that makes you want to eat it NOW! 

What I loved...

- Her description of the places she has walked through and the people that have entered her life
- The recipes. I found good variety and as I mentioned, many that I would love to try. But, I've only tried two so far (they were pretty good) - when I have tried more, I'll likely update this space.
- I also really admire her openess about certain things, like how she had to work at being a mom.
- She wrote lines that resonated with me (below are some quotes).
- The difficulties they encountered moving from a big city to the countryside and also the difficulties of starting a new business (a true Labour of Love)
- Little bits of neat info, like how they went to harvest saffron.


What I'd love to see more of...

- I loved the amount of personal info, storytelling, info about the town and recipes offered.  Of course I could say I'd love to see more recipes and more about Cereste but then I'd be greedy! 



Spoiler Alert (well not exactly), here are some quotes from the book that I liked.  There are many more:

"The other day, Amandine let us in on a little secret: the village has a public fig tree. ... See, I wanted to say to my mom, we may not have the Metropolitan Opera, but we have a communal fig tree."

"Americans are used to instantaneous everything, including friendship. We get giddy, a little desperate. making a friend in France is like training a lion; you have to approach slowly, over time." - there is actually quite a bit of America vs France comparison.

"What I really enjoy about being in Cereste is the length of the days, the way time rolls out smoothly in front of us, like the gentle rise of the fields. Don't get me wrong - I'm still greedy, but now I am greedy for time. I crave it like big bowls of soupe d'epeautre padding my rib cage and warming my organs."

"When my mother wants to tell me she's proud of me (and, I'm lucky to say, this happens quuite often), she says: 'You're the best thing I've ever done.' "

"If I can launch a happy human being out into the world, as my mother launched me, it will be the best thing I've ever done, certainly the most important"

Talking about one of their friends Marion..."Listening to her talk about where we could find wild licorice root or the sweetest apricots was equivalent to having an imaginary map of Provence spread out on the table in front of us. Like churchill moving miniature warships, she could pinpoint the best producers for each fruit - sometimes right down to the tree."

"We had stumbled into an unlikely life. All the five-year plans in the world wouldn't have gotten us here. Yet it's exactly the right place to be."

Loved it and would recommend!

Book Review: The Fortune Cookie Chronicles

At Paradise Fine Chinese Dining Restaurant (but, I think they reserve it for children and likely non-Asians)

The Fortune Cookie Chronicles
Author: Jennifer 8 Lee

Interesting!  I said that a few times throughout the book.  This book is more than it lets on, you think you are just reading about how fortune cookies came to be associated with Chinese food in America by the title, but this book goes into so much more.

The dish General Tso's (or Tao's) Chicken and how it became famous is also in this book which was the actual impetus for my choosing the book to read (this book was published back in 2008). Taiwanvore highlighted the documentary "The Search for General Tso" that came out in 2014 and thus, I was motivated to read the book. (Thanks!)  It's actually funny, the first time I ever had General Tso Chicken was in my twenties at a Malaysian restuarant in New York's Chinatown, lol!  I actually really liked it and when I came back to Toronto, it wasn't the same and wasn't as good so I've never really wanted to order it again.  There is definitely so many versions of the dish now, it was interesting to read how the original dish was supposed to be made.

I know some information about the migration of Chinese people to North America as my own family history in Canada dates quite far back. But, Lee goes into quite a bit of depth on the migration into America, more than I expected.  There is actually quite a bit of info on human smuggling into America as well.  And, if you've every wondered (like I have) why in remote towns there always seems to be a Chinese restaurant, you get your answer here. 

Part of the book also delves into the question,"Where is the best Chinese restaurant in the world?" and Lee takes us on her journey to answer this question. People will definitely argue over this and also argue over the fact that there is no such thing as "the best Chinese restaurant in the world".  But, it was interesting to read and I'm happy to say that out of the restaurants she presented, I came up with the same answer she did :)

What I particularly liked...

- The depth she went into on the fortune cookie and on General Tso's chicken
- How she ended the book: a look at who writes the fortune cookie messages and how they come up with the messages.

Parts that you may wonder why they were included...

- Although I enjoyed reading all chapters of the book, I can see others maybe thinking that there are a few chapters that were nice to know but weren't as connected.  The book includes topics such as: why Chinese food is popular with Jewish people, why Chinese delivery men are so vulnerable where "homicide is a leading cause of on-the-job deaths", and the soy sauce trade dispute where soy sauce could contain ingredients that don't include soy.  To me, they added an extra element to the book as it goes beyond the food itself and highlights aspects of Chinese food that we don't often think about.  I'm really being nit-picky at this point because I do think Lee knows her stuff. I'd really have no comments and just would happily soak up the information and be in awe of the work that went into putting the book together!


It's funny, there are some similarities to Canadianized Chinese food but also trends that didn't take off like the characteristic take-out boxes in America that are not used here.  I remember a long time again, they were used but it didn't last. 

Overall, a great non-fiction read for those interested in North American Chinese food on a more social and historical perspective; I'd definitely recommend!  It's going in my book collection.  Even after reading it, I think I'll refer to it for the historical info and can always share with others. 

Book Review: The Food of Taiwan by Cathy Erway

Pork Meat Sauce over Rice (Lu Rou Fan) 滷肉飯

If you know me, you know I love Taiwanese food and of course, when I first heard that this book was going to be published, I knew I had to get it! This is Cathy Erway's second published book, but first cookbook (although I think her first book had some recipes).   I miss the food in Taiwan and this gave me the motivation to make some of the dishes that I crave. 

The book contains 100 recipes, many are simple traditional dishes that you'd find at many local restaurants in Taiwan and some staple night market dishes as well. Some dishes have origins from China (as many people in Taiwan have ancestry from China), but have become more of a local dish over the years.  Erway does note in the book that she had to keep asking herself" what makes the dish distinctly Taiwanese?  Meaning, not something that's merely a riff or extension of something you'd find in some part of mainland China, nor an attempt at something from an even more far-flung locale".  I like this about her book as she really does attempt to showcase many dishes that would be considered Taiwanese.  She briefly looks at how social factors have led to the formation of Taiwanese cuisine as well as overseas influences.

It's not an indepth look at Taiwanese culture and cuisine, but does touch on many significant areas that gives some good background info about Taiwan.

The recipes I tried:

Pan-Fried Rice Noodles with Pork and Vegetables (Chao Mi Fen) 炒米粉
Noodles with Minced Pork and Fermented Bean Sauce (Zha Jiang Mian) 炸醬麵
Pork Meat Sauce over Rice (Lu Rou Fan) 滷肉飯
Three Cup Chicken (San Bei Ji) 三杯雞
Mochi (Ma Ji) 麻糬 - this was actually filled with peanut but I didn't use peanut (for this recipe, I have made a comment about it here)

There are still so many recipes that I'm interested in making (like one for Pepper Pork Buns (Hu Jiao Bing 胡椒餅) but just haven't had the time.


What I liked...

- Lots of interesting recipes
- Recipes aren't altered to cater to western palates but does try to present recipes where ingredients could be easily purchased in North America. 
- Each recipe is introduced with a little info or personal story
- A range of recipes from very easy recipes to more challenging ones
- Summarizes the food in Taiwan and the people very well


What could be improved...

- I wanted to love the book and find nothing that I could constructively critique, but there was something that I was unfortunately surprised to find...a number of the dishes I tried seemed too salty.  Maybe it is the brand of soy sauce I used but I had to reduce the quantity of soy sauce (by a quarter)for almost all the recipes I tried except one, the fried rice noodles "chao mi fen".  I used a Lee Kum Kee Soy Sauce but I think in Taiwan, a popular brand is Kimlan which I've used in the past.  This might be a less salty soy sauce.  Aside from this, the recipes were great in terms of method and other ingredients.

- There other thing I want to comment on is the small section on tea.  Taiwan is famous for tea, particularly oolong tea and the term "fermented"is used in the book instead of oxidized.  I don't believe this is Erway's error as I've seen the use of the word "fermented" in text from Taiwan.  Fermenting is a different process and this term was erroneously used in the past to describe the oxidation process that occurs when oolong (and red/black) tea is made.  So, some people will still use fermenting to describe the processing of tea.

Noodles with Minced Pork and Fermented Bean Sauce (Zha Jiang Mian) 炸醬麵

Three Cup Chicken (San Bei Ji) 三杯雞 (I forgot to take a picture right after cooking so you'll have to settle for this one)

Pan-Fried Rice Noodles with Pork and Vegetables (Chao Mi Fen) 炒米粉

Overall, I think this book is well written and does deliver on pretty authentic recipes.  Except for the quantity of soy sauce, all the other measurements were pretty good and the instructions were great.  I know that there are some foods that just can't be replicated exactly, especially when it comes to freshness of ingredients, but I think most people will find at least a few recipes that will become standard dishes in their home.

Book Review::Save the Deli

Schwartz's in Montreal (2013).

Save the Deli
Author: David Sax

After reading The Tastemakers, I was interested to read Sax's first book Save the Deli.

Since eating sandwiches made from grocery store bought deli meats all throughout high school, I have not been a fan of deli meats...with one exception; smoked meat.  Schwartz's Deli in Montreal, a cult favourite, is where I had my first smoked meat sandwich and it was fantastic!  Like most people, I just enjoyed the taste and never knew the history.

So needless to say, there was tons of interesting tidbits of information I picked up as I read through the book.  Sax travels around the United States of America in search of great Jewish delis and asks the questions: What is happening to all the delis?  Why are they disappearing?  And what makes a deli survive?  Surprisingly, his visit to L.A. was very fruitful in answering the survival question.

Beside the States, he also goes abroad to Europe and of course being Canadian, has a section on Toronto and Montreal.

What I soaked up with great enthusiasm...

- I really enjoyed the passion he expressed for the food.
- History of the Jewish deli was enjoyable...as I've mentioned before, I'm not that enthusiastic when it comes to learning about the history of something, but the information summarized by Sax was not too heavy and interesting.
- What made one sandwich better than another is also discussed which sometimes can be difficult to explain but Sax does this well.
- Description of the foods served other than deli meats. E.g. He notes that in some delis, the traditional items like blintzes were outstanding. 
- The actual conversations he had with people he has met while researching the deli.  I really like the people aspect he brings into his writing.

What I could do without...

- Can't really say there was anything that felt too dragged out or didn't fit.

Overall, a great book for the foodie!

Book Review :: The Trouble With Brunch

Brunch is not only a concept in North America.  I recently was reading a magaine showcasing a number of brunch places in Taiwan where locals and expats (with money to spend) can enjoy a slow and relaxing meal.

The Trouble With Brunch
Work, Class and the Pursuit of Leisure
Author: Shawn Micallef

Part of the Exploded Views Series
Essays longer than magazine article but shorter than full length book.
www.chbooks.com/explodedviews

This is a post I've been working on for ages!!  After seeing a post in Toronto Life on some "blasphemous" brunch dishes in Toronto, I was reminded about this post.

This little book sure packs a lot of information in it! There were times where I wanted to go to brunch so I could share some of this info or have a discussion about the thoughts presented.  Only about a hundred pages long, it didn't take me too long to finish it when I carved out some time.
 

Micallef first paints a picture of brunch that he finds unappealling and yes, I see brunch could be as he described.  He also makes a note that it has been popular to brunch in places that are cramped and rustic to give the illusion of a working class environment but, patrons are usually not of the working class.  My brunch experiences have been mixed and I generally love having brunch but don't do it very often. 

• I don't like to line up so I too will avoid places where there is too long of a wait.
• The menu is important.
• Price also has to be fair.  Brunch can be expensive but sometimes it's just a little more expensive than lunch but you are taking a seat for a long time.  This concept is not too foreign, longer the stay, pricier the meal.

As mentioned, there are lots of thoughts packed into this book.  The book discusses "brunch" in Toronto and elsewhere. It is enjoyed by a certain group of people and is associated with class, whether it be middle and upper or "creative class" or "leisure class", it is for those with time and extra money.  And how we may see brunch as a means of defining ourselves.
 

I came from a working class family and we rarely ate dinner out.  But, when my grandparents were alive, my family and extended families would get together every Sunday morning for dim sum.  One, to socialize and two, so my relatives could spend time with my grandfather (who lived with us).  Dim sum is Chinese brunch; the meal lasts long and there are a multitude of items to eat that could be classified as breakfast, lunch, or dessert.

In the end, brunch is simply a time to connect and relax.

What I enjoyed....

Discussion on what brunch means to different people.

Discussion on the emerging "creative class". 

I also liked that there were many Toronto references and the comparisons made between his hometown Windsor and Toronto were interesting.
 

Interesting conversation piece but does it belong here...
There was a little section on farmers' markets and how different people of differing classes might view them. In some ways I have felt the same way...are farmers' markets really doing what they intend to do? I walked to my local farmers' market over the summer and had intensions to visit others but often I would think to myself, if I'm driving to another, does that make any sense? So, I just stuck to the one nearby and every so often would pick up stuff like "heirloom" tomatoes or fruit that was in season. I could not bring myself to buy corn for a dollar a cob though, knowing that supermarkets near me would be selling Ontario corn 5 for a dollar.

Anyway, I think this section may have strayed a little from the intent of the book, but it still is interesting to note.
 

What I would have liked more of...

The conclusion seemed a bit rushed.  Personally, the ending would have improved if all the thoughts were pulled together a little bit better, so in the end you can really say...yes, he's said a lot but points a, b, c really resonated.

Throughly enjoyed the book and would recommend if you are interested in the social aspect of food in our society.

Book Review :: The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Food Craze

Ramen at a few places in Toronto, and yes, the Kinton Mega bowl pictured top left is a result of North American influences and as the author would say, do not follow "Japanese sensibilities"

The Untold History of Ramen:  How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Food Craze
Author:  George Solt

I'm not sure how I came across this book when I was searching books online but I'm glad I did.  This book is actually a result of Solt's doctoral dissertation and some parts definitely read like one.  But, don't be turned off by that notion, most of it flows well and you'll learn quite a bit about the history of ramen, fresh and instant.

***

I enjoy eating ramen, but each time I ate it I questioned how much I really knew about ramen.  I knew the origins were from Chinese "laimein" but didn't know much else.  Aside from different broth based versions of ramen, I couldn't tell you much.  Some might say, as long as it tastes good, everything else is not too important...but sometimes I think info is good.

Just before reading this book, we had gone to Hakata Ramen Sho Ryu and felt the noodles were lacking in spring/chewiness as we like noodles with a bite to it.  But, the beginning of this book highlights chewiness is less or non-existent in ramen made in the south and western parts of Japan like Hakata ramen.  So that made sense and made me re-think what is "ramen"?

***

The book traces the transformation of ramen from working class meal that fills you up at the side of the street to instant ramen to national food and to artisanal ramen.  By the end of the book, you'll have a good sense of the origins of ramen and how it's changed, but the multitude of different kinds is still up to you to learn more about it elsewhere.  The subtitle of the book refers to the US occupation of Japan after WWII and the instability at that time.  The political parts of the book were interesting but a little lengthy in some sections.  I'm not much of a political or history buff but when it comes to food, I become a little more interested.  I guess that's the case with anything...you only want to learn about something that interests you so even history I'll read for the sake of food knowledge.  (I can remember junior high history and always talking about the fur trade which to this day I still don't know anything!)

So, if you just wanted to know about ramen, you might skip parts, but the history of the introduction of American wheat was important and the reasons behind it were interesting.  I don't want to give away too much info but school lunch programs as a political tool was quite interesting to read!  The increase in imported American wheat also correlated with the increase of bread consumption, but the reason for ramen taking off was a mixture of other factors.

Rise of instant ramen was quite lengthy and it was interesting to note Ando Momofuku the founder of Nissen Foods (and often credited with inventing instant ramen) was born in Taiwan during the Japanese occupation and Momofuku is the Japanese pronounciation of his given Chinese name.  Instant ramen and ramen as we know it now are two very different things but it was very popular in Japan and subsequently made it's way to North America (the brand Cup Noodles ring a bell?).

Ramen in movies and media is also mentioned and of course the movie Tampopo is also discussed.  The book finishes off with some info about ramen in North America and names like David Chang and Ivan Orkin (who's autobiography I've recently finished reading as well) are mentioned.  It's only in the last 3-4 years that there has been a boom in ramen restaurants in Toronto; a little late to the show but I'm glad there are more ramen places.


What I particularly liked....
I can't really say what particular parts were great because in general, there were a lot of interesting facts about ramen and how it has changed in Japan.  The, "hmmm, interesting..." moments came while reading about the import of American wheat and how that was also linked to the rise of instant ramen.  Some interesting info about instant ramen as "healthy" in the beginning was quite funny given their unhealthy image now.

Ramen as a tourism strategy was also interesting as this led the way for each area to develop their own ramen and infuse monies to smaller cities/towns.

I think Solt did a really good job on the last section, the conclusion.  The conclusion really tied things together and summarized the main points.   There was also a bit of additional info, such as the current ramen philosophy amongst independent ramen chefs in Japan.


What I wasn't too fond of...
There were some parts that had a bit too much info that it made it sound like filler.  Maybe in a phD paper it's necessary, but examples of telegrams that were being sent back to the US from Japan during the US occupation were a bit much.

Also, the numerous articles quoted about instant ramen (pros and cons) seemed a little excessive but I gather there must have been strong opinions to warrant so many.


Overall
For someone looking for information about the rise in popularity of ramen, this book is a great resource.  It wasn't too dry (but of course that's my opinion) and gives you an opinion about ramen's current popularity.  I'm not sure if it's truly an "untold history" but it pulls together the origins, the import of American wheat as the driving force to increased ramen consumption, and how each decade/era has consumed and viewed ramen.  Definitely recommend!!

Book Review: The Seed Underground

The Seed Underground
A growing revolution to save food.

Author:  Janisse Ray

Interesting and thought provoking.  Ray really shows her passion for seed saving and pushing forward the local and organic food movement in this book.  (Book cover and other reviews here.)

Why did I choose to read this book?  I'm not a gardener and I don't save seeds.  Although I have grown cherry tomatoes and strawberries in the past, it never became a passion.  I think I like the idea of growing things but for me, the time is not right.  So, why?  What probably interested me most about the book was learning about the many varieties of food, thus in turn making me want to eat and cook with them.  (But I also think I was in need of some brain food too...most of the other books I've read of late are baby bedtime stories on repetition, lol!)

In this book, Ray helps us to understand the importance of seed saving and sustainable cultivation practices.  The book was very informative as she speaks with many different individuals, gives us a run down of plant breeding, and adds her own personal goals and metaphors into the mix.  She is an activist though, so you'll read lots on how local and organic are good and genetically modified (GM) and large agricultural/biotech companies are "bad".  The open-source seeds discussion was quite interesting to read and how in Canada there was an example court case of farmer vs biotech company where genetic drift resulted in a biotech company suing a farmer in the prairies.

Some of the things mentioned like seed bombs I have heard of (luckily I have a friend that inspires and has contributed to the seed saving movement in Toronto, read here), so it's definitely interesting to see it in a book too.


Highlights:  Parts I really liked...

• Seeds as a cultural resource was an interesting way to think about seeds.  Through many quotes and examples, Ray emphasizes this point.

Quotes:
"An heirloom variety of seed, besides being a genetic resource, has another quality.  It is a cultural resource.  It has a story.  The story changes as time passes."  (p.71)

"Seeds are multipronged.  They have so many pouches, full of stories.  A seed is a city full of avenues, a forest traversed by trails."  (p.72)

John Swenson: " 'All these stories, these recipes -- that's what matters.  Take garlic.  Genetically there are maybe thirty genotypes.  But you have hundreds of names floating around.' ... 'Each name has a story.  Each story has a purpose.  We're supporting the preservation of human culture.' " (p.73)

• Sweet potatoes and the process of saving the tubers that eventually sprout (sprouts are called "slips") which serve as the seed was interesting.  I was also reading this section when I started noticing and buying more varietals of sweet potatoes.  Ginseng Red (creamy, not too starchy, and sweet) and Red Gold sweet potatoes are mentioned.

• Notion of growing crops adapted for the area

• Discussion on public universities and private companies breeding new varieties.  Public universities developing new varieties, selling it to corporations that in turn sell back to the public.

• Annual Seed Savers Exchange in Iowa - interesting plants mentioned, keynote speakers highlighted.

E.g. "fantastical allium...the plant looked like a four-story onion, rib-high." (p.102) -- walking onion, Egyptian onions, top-setting or tree onion.


Not so fond of...

• Sometimes there's a feeling that some judgement is being made.  I.e. you were bad if you enjoyed what large corporations offered

Most people are passionate about something and people support all different types of causes but people cannot be passionate about ALL things.  Sometimes economic status, location, and a multitude of other personal factors may put seed saving, buying local and organic at the bottom of the totem pole.


Overall, I did enjoy the book and would recommend it to foodies.  A lot can be learned and I think I'm more inclined to support local and organic.  Ultimately, I do think the book inspires some change; small or large, anyone who reads this book is going to think more about local/organic/seed saving and be inclined to do something different.  I've definitely ate more local foods but it's been easier this past summer; winters will definitely pose a challenge.

And one final quote from one of Ray's interviewees Sylvia Dawatz:
"The logical next step for the local-food movement is to establish locally grown seeds."

Book Review: The Tastemakers

The Tastemakers why we're crazy for cupcakes but fed up with fondue.
By David Sax

In the last few years the books I've read have all been non-fiction and most have some relevance to food.  So, it was no surprise that I wanted to read the new book The Tastemakers by David Sax.

Why are I writing a book review?

Several reasons actually.

1.  It's about food trends which is interesting not only from a food/culinary perspective but from a social, psychological, and economic perspective as well.
2.  David Sax is Canadian.  His intro referenced Toronto so I was already liking it and it's great to see some Canadian content.  (I ended up looking for the Red Prince apple.)
3.  The phenomenon of cupcakes made me think of all the episodes of Cupcake Wars that I watched but seldom made cupcakes and even surprisingly, only bought cupcakes once in Taipei (but have eaten ones bought or made by others in Toronto).

I did a brief review on Goodreads which you can find here.  But I wanted to make some additional notes.

Highlights

If you want a good summary about the cupcake trend, you'll definitely find it here and then some.  It was really interesting to read and Sax speaks to a number of people that hypothesize how it started/and why it's still popular after more than a decade!  Yes, it's been that long and some might say it's hitting two decades!  Some believe cupcakes and "cupcakeries" are here to stay because there's nothing to take it's place...yet.  This is quite true, cupcakes are not at it's peak right now but they still seem to be popular.

Aside from cupcakes, there were two sections I really enjoyed, the agriculture chapter and the baconomics chapter.  The agriculture chapter focuses on "China Black" rice and Glenn Roberts' (founder of Anson Mills) devotion to bringing back the Carolina Rice Kitchen (you'll read more about it).  Black rice is actually not that new as I've seen it regularly at Asian markets and often in Korean restaurants ("purple rice").  But what I liked about the chapter was how Sax captures the perseverance of these agricultural tastemakers that strive to make a difference, strive to maintain strains of crops that would otherwise go extinct or create new varietals.

The baconomics chapter had a lot of interesting info about the bacon craze and ties a lot of information together (it's near the end of the book).  The chapter gives us a little history on bacon, the rise with the Atkins diet trend, and the current love now bestowed.  More importantly it does highlight one of the top reasons food trends exist...MONEY.  This section was interesting to me personally because of the sheer amount of craziness that bacon has generated in the States.

Notable mention would be the section on the Fancy Food Show in the States.  If you're in the food industry you're probably already aware of such an event. In Canada we have similar industry events but smaller in scale.  Again, it's following the story of some of the attendees and he also talks with some of the tastemakers, notably the Whole Foods buyer.  Sax makes reference to Whole Foods as the place you want to be if you want an item to take off as it bridges the gap between health food or speciality store and supermarkets.  I never really thought about it in that way.  Right now two words come to mind when I think of Whole Foods:  expensive and organic.  For some, they would replace the word "expensive" with "premium" but for someone on a budget like me...expensive is the word.  That said, I do however think perusing the aisles of Whole Foods is interesting and hard to find ingredients can be found there so in a few months when a Whole Foods store is opening at Yonge and Sheppard, I'll likely be checking it out.


Not So Fond Of...

There wasn't any particular chapter I didn't like, only small sections that were a little slow or data heavy.  The section on forecasting trends using data analysis was one (no surprise there).  But it's really hard to make data analysis "sexy" so it's easy to be forgiving.  However, the part that was most interesting or useful was a few theories behind food trends were mentioned (i.e. "cocooning") so still worth reading.

The chapter on Health Trends was interesting but for some reason it wasn't a page turner for me.  I have a background in nutrition so maybe the info wasn't as fresh for me?  Sax focuses on superfoods and chia seeds but also reinforces the recommendation to eat foods in moderation which is great.  The notion that superfoods are really just a marketing tool is reiterated several times.  I recognize many people start eating one thing in excess because they hear it's healthy but, if it gets people to eat more variety of foods that is a positive outcome.  I do think that highlighting foods that are more nutritionally dense is important because often than not people are not meeting their daily requirements of vegetables, fruits, and fibre.


Page Turner?

Some chapters were more alive and made me want to read more like the above mentioned sections while some sections were a little slow and had too much data pushed in or repeated things.  But overall what made it an easy read was the personal stories woven into the data.  It's well researched and also spawned an interest in specific areas that have led me to read other books which is a total bonus!  I'd recommend it for those interested in food culture and in some ways, food psychology; definitely a good reference book.