Book Review: The Only Street in Paris

Comte and Etorki Cheese (sooo delicious!)...unfortunately I don't have any other pics that would go along with this book review.

The Only Street in Paris
Life on the Rue des Martyrs
Author: Elaine Sciolino

After reading Picnic in Provence, a couple of months ago I came across a new book out by Elaine Sciolino, a journalist who has been living in Paris for over a decade now. 

This book has a lot, I mean A LOT of historical info for what you think you are going to get.  (Bear in mind that I'm a person that doesn't know anything about French history.)  There are tidbits of info strewn into the book via stories of people she meets on the Rue des Martyrs and quite a bit of religious history given the number of churches on the street.  Essentially, she writes about her interactions with the different shopkeepers and residents living in or around the street to give us a picture or more appropriately, a feeling of what it is like to be living on this street.  

The Rue des Martyrs reminds me a little like Kensington Market in Toronto (although it is a combination of a number of streets vs one street in Paris).  Although I've never lived in that part of town and the area does not have the length of history as the Rue des Martyrs, it seems like it has the potential to be, but...that would probably be another discussion.  Kensington Market is slowly becoming more gentrified with eateries that are more modern but it still has many vendors that have been there for years (how many years I'm not sure of).   There are still cheese shops and produce vendors and shops selling little knick knacks (....don't know if the flag store is still there).  There are tons of coffee shops and the area was the place to go for second hand goods.  On St. Andrew street there was a poultry shop my mom liked to buy whole chickens from (with head and feet attached and a little bag of organs if you wanted them) but I think they have since moved, and on that street there is also an old Jewish Synagogue, Anshei Minsk.  I remember seeing it quite often and when I recently looked it up, they mention there used to be about 30 places of worship for the Jewish community in the Kensington Area. Anyway, if you live in Toronto, most have been to the area in pursuit of some of the newer eats that have been all over social media.

There are some interesting things tidbits about Paris that come out while she talks about the Rue des Martyrs.  In one chapter she mentions she met some people and asked what their profession was and there would be people that will say 'intellectual'...quite a different response that what we would hear in Canada, lol!  She points out that that is not what the people on the Rue des Martyrs are like.  However, there are many that are well read and love books and it was also interesting to note that there is a law that books can't be sold for more than 5% off the cover price...even Amazon!  This is to protect the independent book stores.  I think it's good for them, but at the same time I'm a person that buys from Amazon or Indigo/Chapters online.  

What I liked...

- Elaine's enthusiasm.  It really shows through that she really loves the street and is willing to make the first move to open up or to show a sign that she's interested in the people.
- Again, the personal stories were important to the overall appeal of the book.  I don't think it was one story but at times I felt like I was right there as someone in the audience watching a short play of certain conversations she's had.

Not your 'cup of tea' if you...

- If you have NO interest in the history of buildings and churches you might want to skip this, but it's still a manageable read. I have never been to Paris but appreciate the long history of some of the buildings.  I don't remember all the details but hopefully when one day I walk down the Rue des Martyrs I'll remember something.
- If you're looking for the side of Paris that we in North America always see/think about...the pastries (oh the pastries!), the baguettes, the cheese, the sitting at a cafe with a coffee or glass of wine, picnic by the Seine, the monuments, the shopping.  This book is not about describing all that in detail, well actually there is quite a bit about the Cheese monger there, but it won't give you a guide to the trendy shops (but does highlight second hand shops) or other things in Paris.  For example, Sebastien Gaudard, a famous pastry chef and chocolatier, has a shop on the Rue des Martyrs, there is not much about him and his creations.  He is regarded as another member of the 'family' on the street.

Overall...

An interesting read that either makes you want to go to the Rue des Martyrs and interact with the shopkeepers or at least consider it on your next trip to Paris.